The occupied West Bank town of Bethlehem has good reason to consider itself the capital of Christmas, but this year it doesn’t feel like that.

It’s usually peak time and there are few tourists. There are no usual cheerful street decorations or huge Christmas trees in front of the Church of the Nativity, which is built on the site where people believe Jesus was born.

Public celebrations of Christmas have been canceled for the second year running because of the war in Gaza. Palestinian Christians only attend religious services and family gatherings.

“This should be a time of joy and celebration,” commented the Rev. Monser Isaac, pastor of the local Lutheran church. “But Bethlehem is a sad town in solidarity with our brothers and sisters in Gaza.”

In his church, a nativity scene shows the baby Jesus lying in a pile of rubble. On Christmas Eve, a prayer event focused on the catastrophic situation in Gaza.

“It’s hard to believe that another Christmas has come and the genocide has not stopped,” Isaac said in a strongly worded sermon. “Policymakers are content to let this continue. For them, the Palestinians are Dispensable.”

Israel has strongly denied accusations of genocide in Gaza, and judges at the United Nations’ highest court have yet to rule on a genocide case brought by South Africa.

Many Bethlehem Christians I met felt hopeless and questioned what they saw as the failure of other Christian groups around the world to speak out.

The close ties between members of this small Palestinian Christian community mean that many locals have family and friends in Gaza.

“My mother told me that what we see on TV doesn’t reflect one percent of what’s going on,” said Dr. Yusuf Khouri, a theologian from Gaza City.

His parents and sister are among hundreds of Christians who have taken refuge in two churches in Gaza for much of the past 14 months.

“They suffer from hunger just like the entire Gaza Strip. And of course because of the bombing, they can barely sleep because of all the drones flying over them and there’s a lack of medical care and services,” he said.

“We have lost friends and relatives.”

In Gaza, the war sparked by Hamas attacks in southern Israel has killed more than 45,000 people. The data comes from the Hamas-run health ministry but is considered reliable by the United Nations and other agencies. The attack on October 7, 2023 killed approximately 1,200 people (Israeli and some foreigners) and resulted in approximately 250 people being taken hostage.

The outbreak of war coincides with heightened tensions in the West Bank. Israel has imposed new restrictions on Palestinian movement and canceled permits for tens of thousands of workers who used to enter Jerusalem or Jewish settlements every day.

The economy is in trouble, especially in Bethlehem, which relies heavily on tourism, which has almost completely stopped. Guides leisurely stood beside the Church of the Nativity feeding the pigeons.

“If there are tourists, everyone works: hotels, transportation, accommodation, all of it,” said Abdullah, a tour guide. “But without tourists, there would be no life in the city of Bethlehem.”

“I’m broke! No business! We’ve been staying at home for more than a year,” exclaimed Adnan Subah, a souvenir seller on Star Street.

“My son is a tour guide at the church and we stay at home, all my children. No jobs, no business, no tourists.”

Many local Christian and Muslim families have immigrated in the past year. Palestinians have long sought to establish their own independent state, but as the threat of violence persists and settlements expand, fear and uncertainty about the future have grown.

But one community group in Bethlehem is trying to make a difference: packing food parcels for those in need. There is no government aid here and volunteers have been collecting donations – including from the diaspora.

“As you know, Christmas is the spirit of giving, love and joy. We hope that with this package, we can bring some hope and joy to families in our area,” said Val Schaal, director of the Palestine Lions Club.

I followed Ware as he made his first delivery to a woman who lived in a nearby apartment. Her husband is sick and unemployed. She gratefully opened the supply box given to her and took an envelope of cash.

She and Weir exchanged customary holiday greetings and wished each other peace in the coming year.

“Mission accomplished!” Weir told me as we set off.

“Spread a little cheer at Christmas.”